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How China’s Gen Z sparked a doll fashion craze – and its impact on the economy

Some owners compare the dolls, including the hit Labubu, to children – driving a splurge in spending

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Labubu wearing Hanfu doll clothes. Photo: Handout
June Xia
A booming market for miniature clothing has become the latest growth driver in China’s “doll economy” – fuelled by Gen Z’s passion for the toys and the emotional comfort they provide.

“Loving ball-jointed dolls is as natural as breathing,” said 21-year-old Clementine Cai from Zhejiang. Two years after falling in love with the toys, she had spent over 3,000 yuan (US$417) on outfits alone – a sizeable amount given her roughly 2,000 yuan in monthly expenses.

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Unlike the wildly popular Labubu vinyl plush toys, ball-jointed dolls are typically made of resin or ceramic and feature spherical joints that allow for lifelike poses. Owners can customise them with clothing, jewellery, bags and other accessories.

A single outfit usually costs between 300 and 500 yuan, Cai said – far exceeding what she spends on her own clothes.

“Ball-jointed dolls are gorgeous and can be dressed up for photos – they’re pure enjoyment,” she added.

According to data from Taobao and Tmall, two of China’s largest e-commerce platforms, doll clothing sales surged by over 117 per cent year on year in 2024. In May this year, sales broke the 10-million-yuan (about US$1.4 billion) mark for the first time.

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During the “618” shopping festival, which ended in June, transactions for related products increased by over 50 per cent year on year, Taobao data showed – with women making up more than 80 per cent of buyers.
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