What to eat in China’s Chengdu, from fiery hotpot to the original mapo tofu
A reflection of Sichuan’s diverse flavours and culinary heritage, Chengdu’s food and drinks scene rewards the adventurous

It is 10 in the morning and I am handed a shot of baijiu at the Yulin Comprehensive Market, in Chengdu’s Wuhou district. The woman who poured the strong, clear spirit eyes me uncertainly. “This is 52 per cent,” she warns.
My guide, chef Steven Tang of the one-Michelin-star Mi Xun Teahouse at Upper House Chengdu, provides some background.
“It removes gamey smells from meat, especially organs,” Tang says. “Added to chilli oil, it boosts aroma, colour and shelf life.”
Baijiu also works magic on sun-dried waxed meats like Sichuan sausages, inhibiting bacteria while infusing the items with flavour. Above us, cured meats hang like edible chandeliers. It is late winter, and the curing season is now behind us.
