Advertisement
Food and Drinks
LifestyleFood & Drink

What to eat in China’s Chengdu, from fiery hotpot to the original mapo tofu

A reflection of Sichuan’s diverse flavours and culinary heritage, Chengdu’s food and drinks scene rewards the adventurous

6-MIN READ6-MIN
Listen
Fei yi mao xue wang – silken duck blood curd and snappy tripe in a broth dense with chillies and peppercorns – at Chengdu’s Taolin Restaurant is a bold take on a Chongqing classic. Photo: Pin Yen Tan
Tan Pin Yen

It is 10 in the morning and I am handed a shot of baijiu at the Yulin Comprehensive Market, in Chengdu’s Wuhou district. The woman who poured the strong, clear spirit eyes me uncertainly. “This is 52 per cent,” she warns.

My guide, chef Steven Tang of the one-Michelin-star Mi Xun Teahouse at Upper House Chengdu, provides some background.

“Sichuan has a long history of baijiu brewing, with countless small distilleries each unique,” he says. “This time-honoured brand [you are drinking] from Qionglai, 70 kilometres [43 miles] southwest of Chengdu, is all handmade and wonderful for cooking.”
Advertisement
Baijiu – a clear spirit distilled from sorghum that is usually between 40 and 60 per cent ABV – is a fixture at Chinese weddings and new year celebrations, yet its most important work happens quietly in Sichuan kitchens.

“It removes gamey smells from meat, especially organs,” Tang says. “Added to chilli oil, it boosts aroma, colour and shelf life.”

Advertisement

Baijiu also works magic on sun-dried waxed meats like Sichuan sausages, inhibiting bacteria while infusing the items with flavour. Above us, cured meats hang like edible chandeliers. It is late winter, and the curing season is now behind us.

Containers full of baijiu are lined in rows at the Yulin Comprehensive Market in Chengdu. Photo: Pin Yen Tan
Containers full of baijiu are lined in rows at the Yulin Comprehensive Market in Chengdu. Photo: Pin Yen Tan
Advertisement
Select Voice
Select Speed
1.00x